First BMW R80

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alexxx
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First BMW R80

Postby alexxx » Tue Oct 08, 2019 10:28 am

Hi Folks,

Just bought (auction) a 1984 BMW R80RT, it had a damaged fairing (screen and ignition console vandalised), I bought it as a non runner.
I would like to ask for some advice please, first thing...I can't get the bike onto the centre stand, just can't get it over the pivot point. I am fit and active but getting this bike onto its stand is impossible. The stand seems to spring up and down ok, not seized.
Could this mileage be genuine? Bike speedo states 35,000 miles and this seems confirmed by some MOT history on the UK DVLA site, the bike was MOT'd in June 2019 but previously it was last MOT'd over 10 years (33,000 miles) ago so it must have been in storage since 2010.
The engine oil was just below min level and the only leak I could see seems to be coming from the rear of the case near where the clutch arm fits, there was oil coating the centre stand, so I was worrying where the oil had gone, burnt by a worn engine or leaked out. I topped up the oil (maybe a bit over max) wired up an ignition lock and the bike fired up first time, engine sounds quiet and fine, if I pull in the clutch lever the engine is very quiet so something in the clutch is make a slight rattle, no idea if this is normal.(I have an MZ that does the same)
There was some smoke from the exhausts, really not sure if it was an over rich setting or oil as it was getting dark and I was using a hand lamp to see, it did seem to clear after running for 10 mins but I will need to check in daylight.
That is what made me question the mileage, could the cylinders be worn? is it just rich from not being started in months. The generator light comes on at low tickover speed (just under 1000) so looking for general guidance and tips.
Paintwork is all original, I will be removing the fairing as the top was damaged when the screen/console was knocked out, I need to make this bike lighter, no panniers with it but I would not want them anyway. How do you separate the bottom fairing sections? I am not sure how to remove the inner fairing sections.
Apologies for all the questions in one place but I thought better than making 5 posts.

Regards
Alex (Scotland UK)

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Re: First BMW R80

Postby Mjolinor » Tue Oct 08, 2019 11:05 am

The stand is designed for you to put your foot on the back of the stand and put your weight on it. There is little pulling and thrutching needed if you do it right. This does assume it has the standard centre stand mind you.

Your generator light is normal. Generally tickover should be 1000 revs so it is charging on tick over, just.

I would not worry yet about the smoke or the oil leak. If it is the back of the gearbox and is engine oil then likely the felt washer is knackered on the push rod but you may find that it sorts itself out if it hasn't been used. Oil level will drop to about half on the dipstick (so people say) but I have not noticed mine doing that probably because mine spews it out of the back of the engine faster than the engine can burn it. They do tend to smoke for a few miles if they have not been run, just use it. It will not be worn cylinders.

My 10 cents. I am sure that there will be conflicting information in some replies, that's what these places are for. :)
Stick your location in your profile. There are a lot of Scots here, not sure we need any more but such is life.

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Re: First BMW R80

Postby george baker » Tue Oct 08, 2019 11:18 am

Hi Alex, first off Welcome to the forum.

Some housekeeping, Please put your location in your profile, it gets you ;local info and invites, then tell us a bit more about yourself, experience and when you can play out in the Introduce yourself section. There is a group who meet in Scotland, although I realize it is a Big country.

I prefer 5 questions in 5 topics cos it keeps individual queries together. See below for how hard it is to reply multiple posts and the time it takes
first thing...I can't get the bike onto the centre stand, just can't get it over the pivot point. I am fit and active but getting this bike onto its stand is impossible. The stand seems to spring up and down ok, not seized..
I have no idea, it is a whilr since I had one of this vintage but iirc mine was ok getting it on the stand
Could this mileage be genuine? Bike speedo states 35,000 miles and this seems confirmed by some MOT history on the UK DVLA site, the bike was MOT'd in June 2019 but previously it was last MOT'd over 10 years (33,000 miles) ago so it must have been in storage since 2010.
Yes, look at the foot rest rubbers and wear on the tank to see if they look ok for that milage, there are meny low milage bikes about
The engine oil was just below min level and the only leak I could see seems to be coming from the rear of the case near where the clutch arm fits, there was oil coating the centre stand, so I was worrying where the oil had gone, burnt by a worn engine or leaked out. I topped up the oil (maybe a bit over max) wired up an ignition lock and the bike fired up first time, engine sounds quiet and fine,.
How did you check the level? but it sounds OK
, if I pull in the clutch lever the engine is very quiet so something in the clutch is make a slight rattle, no idea if this is normal.(I have an MZ that does the same)
Most of mine have been like that
There was some smoke from the exhausts, really not sure if it was an over rich setting or oil as it was getting dark and I was using a hand lamp to see, it did seem to clear after running for 10 mins but I will need to check in daylight.
Yes check in daylight, could the smoke be steam? Oil may be from the airbox where it collects from the breather. Or from around the valves if it has been on the side stand
That is what made me question the mileage, could the cylinders be worn? is it just rich from not being started in months.
, Yes the cylinders "could be worn" but it is very uncommon d
The generator light comes on at low tickover speed (just under 1000) so looking for general guidance and tips.
Most of mine have been like that
Paintwork is all original, I will be removing the fairing as the top was damaged when the screen/console was knocked out, I need to make this bike lighter, no panniers with it but I would not want them anyway. How do you separate the bottom fairing sections? I am not sure how to remove the inner fairing sections.
I would think hard about changing the paintwork, patina has a charm of its own, if you remove the fairing you will need to relocate the ignition switch and get headlight supports, There are some screws at knee level and a bracket under the cylinder head

Good luck
George
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Re: First BMW R80

Postby CharlieVictor » Tue Oct 08, 2019 11:54 am

welcome here Alex

It's certainly a particular approach to buy a classic bike and THEN do the research... So my piece of advice -George having addressed most of your question- would be to buy some literature on the subject. Haynes, Clymer etc... which will help you understand and work on your bike, and establish a clearer priority protocol.

Just curious... Airheads are not everyone cup of tea... Have you ridden a BMW series before?
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Re: First BMW R80

Postby Richard(Sande)Sanders » Tue Oct 08, 2019 12:05 pm

Hi Alex,
if the bike is left on the side stand, oil can seep past the rings as the engine cools, causing the
bike to smoke when started, this should clear as the bike warms up. Most of my bikes have had
the generator light come on at low tickover speeds.
The clutch is a single plate dry clutch, & they all seem to rattle a little.
The fairing lower sections are joined on the inside by screws, photo shows the lower panel with the
upper join towards the bottom of the pic. There is also a grill at the front, & the metal stay near the
top of the pic is bolted to the bike under the cylinder.
s-l1600.jpg
I suggest getting at least a haynes & possibly a clymer manual for your bike. I found that between
them you can usually find what you need often with photo's to help.
For spares & servicing bits the main places apart from a main dealer or ebay are:-
Motorworks :- www.motorworks.co.uk
James Sherlock:- www.james-sherlock.co.uk
Motobins:- www.motobins.co.uk
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Re: First BMW R80

Postby alexxx » Tue Oct 08, 2019 12:10 pm

Thank you everyone for the advice,
I feel a bit more confident about the motor now and will try to get the technique for the centre stand. I just worry about dropping the bike onto it's cylinders if it falls away from me when putting on the centre stand or forgetting about the auto retract side stand...that I need to change. None of my other bikes have that feature so I won't forget.
I have to remove the damaged faring so it will be a naked conversion though I will try keep the paintwork original and just touch up the chips.
This is my first BMW and airhead, I like the classic qualities of these bikes and it is different, never ridden one but I expect it will be smooth and comfortable but..... so wide, not used to that.

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Re: First BMW R80

Postby alexxx » Tue Oct 08, 2019 12:13 pm

Thanks Richard,

It is the upper joints I am having trouble accessing, will try again in daylight after work.
Thanks

Alex

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george baker
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Re: First BMW R80

Postby george baker » Tue Oct 08, 2019 1:25 pm

Hi alexxx
try RealOem. com to see expanded drawings. The lower panels sound have, iirc cross head screws into spire clips, but after all this time who knows what is there now. Try to resist the temptation to use a Dremel too soon, the fairing material does not like to get too hot. Try a hand drill first to remove to top of the screw, a power drill often picks up the screw and rotates it causing the fairing to get hot and smelly.

Make sure you can get the Headlamp ears before removing the fairing.

Scotland is a Big Place, please pin your location down a bit further, top, middle, bottom, East, West?

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Re: First BMW R80

Postby andyb » Tue Oct 08, 2019 2:40 pm

Hi Alexxx
Welcome
Before running the engine again I would renew the oils and filter. Not a big job but there may well be water in them. Oil cheap, engine not! I would also change them again once you have done a few miles and got the bike hot.
The normal problem with unused bikes is gunge in the carbs. If yours is starting and ticking over OK then you have been lucky
The other problem you may get is rubber seals failing - like the pushrod seals and rear gaiter - but do a few miles and see what happens. These parts are not expensive
Good luck
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Re: First BMW R80

Postby alexxx » Tue Oct 08, 2019 3:29 pm

Is the oil shared with the gears or is it separate?
I put at least 2 litres in last night, maybe more, so it has had an oil change :) but I will let it run in the garage on and off for a while then change it.

Regards,
Alex

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Re: First BMW R80

Postby windmill john » Tue Oct 08, 2019 4:04 pm

so wide, not used to that.

No wider than your bars.

Warm feet in the Winter.

And.... you never have to think twice about some idiot opening a car door. Some bikes you could lose a leg. Obviously you always have to think, I'm just saying :smile:
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Re: First BMW R80

Postby vmx1200 » Tue Oct 08, 2019 4:14 pm

First off welcome to the forum and congratulations on buying an Airhead

As said it will be important to change all of the oils and the oil filter before running it much more, The oil change is simple unless you have an oil cooler then removing the cover with the thermostat is a right pain as you may have to loosen the exhaust hearer to be able to remove it, If there is only a flat triangular plate as the right front side of the crankcase above the sump it is a doddle

The engine, gearbox, driveshaft, and rear bevel drive all have separate oil, the latter three being gear oil.

You said you added 2 litres, they only hold just over 2.5 litres so i suggest you check the dipstick before turning it over, to check the lever don't screw the dipstick in, it should rest on the edge of the filler hole
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Re: First BMW R80

Postby vmx1200 » Tue Oct 08, 2019 4:25 pm

This may help on the oil side
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Re: First BMW R80

Postby Galactic Greyhound » Tue Oct 08, 2019 4:55 pm

Hi Alex,

Welcome to the forum!

Your questions indicate that you are very new to BMW bikes especially the Airhead series of which your R80RT is part of.
If you intend to do much DIY on keeping your R80RT on the road then you will save a lot of time, effort and trouble by buying a Haynes and/or Clymer manual for your bike which are around £25 new or less second-hand on Ebay.
Make sure that the manual you get includes your model and year.
Spend a little time going through the manual to become aware of how your Airhead is built and what the maintenance requirements are.

There are a few members in and around Edinburgh and beyond who generally meet up at one of the Northern Meet lunch venues.
Keep your eye open for 'General Motorcycle Chat' posts advertising these.
Also, see the 'Club Events' tab in the Header Bar for this page which indicates the Club Main Events and also provides a link to the Club Calendar which shows the main and smaller events such as the Northern, Yorkshire and North-West lunch Meets:
http://www.bmridersclub.com/calendar.htm

The following is useful information on how to identify parts for your bike and where to get these parts from, either new or secondhand.
It also lets you see how your bike is put together in the form of Parts Diagrams with their Parts Lists for each main assembly unit of your bike:

"RealOEM PARTS FICHE

Below is a link to the RealOEM BMW Parts Fiche - put the last 7 digits of your VIN into the 'Serial Number' box and select 'Search' - the result of the Search will be given at the bottom of the page and will identify that VIN.

Using your VIN in this way identifies the EXACT build of your bike and the appropriate Part Numbers.
The diagrams are also useful showing how the parts are incorporated in the assembly, however, note that the diagrams tend to be generic and may not be exact for your build although the Parts List will be:

From the VIN result, you can then go to the Parts Diagrams and get the correct BMW Part Number for every component of the bike.

Using the VIN number in this way means that ONLY the parts specific to that VIN will be listed in the Parts List below the diagrams and is the safest way to get the correct BMW parts for your bike:

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/select.do?kind=M&arch=0



I suggest that you get hold of a Haynes or Clymer manual for your bike as each contain a wealth of information and tips on maintaining and/or rebuilding a bike. They also contain Wiring Diagrams.

There are lots of experts on this forum who can help you out. It is better to post a query here beforehand than dive in regardless and maybe break something through lack of knowledge.

You can get new and used genuine BMW parts for your bike from:
Local BMW Dealer (new parts only) https://www.bmw-motorrad.co.uk/en/home.html#/filter-all
Motorworks https://www.motorworks.co.uk
Motobins (new parts only) https://www.motobins.co.uk
James Sherlock https://www.james-sherlock.co.uk

All above trusted suppliers and helpful with advice on purchases. The Motorworks website also accepts BMW Part Numbers (no spaces).

If you put your location in your profile it helps for assistance, meets etc and we don't have to keep asking you where you are."
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Re: First BMW R80

Postby alexxx » Tue Oct 08, 2019 4:59 pm

Thank you everyone,
a very helpful and informative forum :)

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Re: First BMW R80

Postby andyb » Tue Oct 08, 2019 5:19 pm

Hi Alexxx,
It is not a good idea to leave Airheads ticking over for long. They are aircooled and the heads / valves may overheat If there is no airflow! Yet the oil will not get very hot. I would also not leave an airhead ticking over on the side stand. Firstly in case it falls over and secondly I would worry about a lack of oil to the RHS cylinder.

The flick up sidestand was introduced as a safety measure. Many don’t like it but you do get used to it.

There should be a grab handle on the LHS of the bike to help put it on the centrestand. If the tyres are flat it can be a struggle - raising the wheels an inch on planks helps a lot.
AndyB
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Re: First BMW R80

Postby Galactic Greyhound » Tue Oct 08, 2019 5:38 pm

…..The flick up sidestand was introduced as a safety measure. Many don’t like it but you do get used to it.

I would go as far as to caution against removing the 'flick-up' sidestand feature as one who experienced what can happen if you ride off with the sidestand down.
Ced.

R1100RT 1996.
Sent by Boson Quantum Transmission from the Starship 'Galahad'.
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Re: First BMW R80

Postby alexxx » Tue Oct 08, 2019 10:55 pm

Thanks for the advice,
On removing the fairing, I seen a bmw sticker with R80/7 above the VIN plate, does that mean the frame has been changed?

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Re: First BMW R80

Postby Galactic Greyhound » Wed Oct 09, 2019 9:24 am

Put the last 7 digits of your VIN into the RealOEM Parts Fiche Serial No. box to see what it says about the VIN as per my earlier post.
Ced.

R1100RT 1996.
Sent by Boson Quantum Transmission from the Starship 'Galahad'.
http://www.researchgate.net/publication ... ing_bosons" - It works!

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Re: First BMW R80

Postby Rob Frankhamr » Wed Oct 09, 2019 5:20 pm

A couple of extra points,

The fairing...

You don't need to remove the inner fairings to get the upper fairing off. There is a series of crosshead screws that connect the upper fairing to the lowers...

My advice would be to remove the lowers first. The front panel is held by 9 cross head screws, remove them and it pulls away. The lowers are supported at the bottom by sheet metal brackets secured to the fairing by 6mm screws. They can be a PITA to remove but they will come undone with a short 1/4 inch ratchet or a thin ring spanner. At the top, there is a row of crosshead screws attaching the lowers to the uppers along with a single 6mm bolt on each side, that secures both upper and lower fairings to an upper tubular bracket. Once these are removed, the lowers can be pulled away and twisted so they can clear the exhausts.

Once the lowers are out of the way, there is a section behind the forks that can be removed by undoing yet more crosshead screws. Once this is off, the whole upper fairing is held in place by 4 6mm bolts connecting it to the front spider. Undo these and the whole upper fairing can be lifted away from the bike (OK, you have to disconnect the electrics & etc.

Cylinders

A '84 machine will have Nikasil coated cylinders. It is highly inlikely that these will have any wear issues. At most, you may need to replace rings. These cyliders last just about forever and effectively can't be rebored. BMW never even suppied oversize pistons for them.

I think the other points have already been covered.

Welcome to the forum by the way and look forward to seeing you at one of our Northern meets one day.

Regards

Rob
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Re: First BMW R80

Postby andymcg » Wed Oct 09, 2019 8:00 pm

…..The flick up sidestand was introduced as a safety measure. Many don’t like it but you do get used to it.

I would go as far as to caution against removing the 'flick-up' sidestand feature as one who experienced what can happen if you ride off with the sidestand down.
If your wort about the flick up side stand is not being able to deploy it before getting off the bike
I have solved that with the mod in photo of a piece of Bowden cable inner attached to bottom of stand with a toggle at other end which you pull up to deploy stand then you can lean machine over on it and dismount.
I made mod before going on a trip with lots of luggage. Not wanting to look a complete prat droping bike as I stopped.
Welcome to the world of Airheads.
I see the usual learned experts have answered your questions.
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Re: First BMW R80

Postby SteveD » Thu Oct 10, 2019 6:12 am

Hi Alex,

1984 BMW R80RT, .I can't get the bike onto the centre stand, just can't get it over the pivot point. I am fit and active but getting this bike onto its stand is impossible. The stand seems to spring up and down ok, not seized. This is an anti theft feature. Getting it off the centre stand is also has it's own idiosyncratic technique.
Up: Stand left side. Left hand to handlebar, right hand to lifting rail above left sidecover. Right foot pushes the stand tang down, then moves to the end of the stands left tube. Put your weight thru that foot onto the stand, lift the bike up using you right hand, guide the bike back and over the pivot using your left hand. Avoid it falling heavily back. Your stand and frame might need some work to correct this. new bushes and bolts would be a good start, maybe even making the stand holes round instead of oval.
Off. Left foot in front of the stand to prevent movement. Lift up and forward with right hand.


Could this mileage be genuine? Bike speedo states 35,000 miles and this seems confirmed by some MOT history on the UK DVLA site, the bike was MOT'd in June 2019 but previously it was last MOT'd over 10 years (33,000 miles) ago so it must have been in storage since 2010.
Speedo rolls over to 00000 at 100000kms. 35, 135, 235?

The engine oil was just below min level and the only leak I could see seems to be coming from the rear of the case near where the clutch arm fits, there was oil coating the centre stand, look at the push rod rubbers and the oil pressure switch left side. Common culprits.so I was worrying where the oil had gone, burnt by a worn engine or leaked out. I topped up the oil (maybe a bit over max) wired up an ignition lock and the bike fired up first time, engine sounds quiet and fine, if I pull in the clutch lever the engine is very quiet so something in the clutch is make a slight rattle, no idea if this is normal.(I have an MZ that does the same) Sounds ok.

There was some smoke from the exhausts, really not sure if it was an over rich setting or oil as it was getting dark and I was using a hand lamp to see, it did seem to clear after running for 10 mins but I will need to check in daylight. Left side can/will smoke if left on the sidestand. Valve guides can wear and you'll see smoke at idle and when accelerating but should clear quickly. Might need new rings?

That is what made me question the mileage, could the cylinders be worn? Could be. Measure to know. Compression test? is it just rich from not being started in months. The generator light comes on at low tickover speed (just under 1000) so looking for general guidance and tips. GEN light should be on at idle and extinguish at ~1500rpm. Normal. If GEN light doesn't do that or stays on, then charging system needs repair.

Paintwork is all original, I will be removing the fairing as the top was damaged when the screen/console was knocked out, I need to make this bike lighter, no panniers with it but I would not want them anyway. How do you separate the bottom fairing sections? I am not sure how to remove the inner fairing sections. I have a RS. The RT was made by putting it into the wind tunnel backwards! :---) :lol: Once you get the inner bits out (I dunno), the rest is inituitive.
Apologies for all the questions in one place but I thought better than making 5 posts.

Welcome Alex. Hth.:)
Cheers, Steve.
1982 R100RS, 2006 K1200R.
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Re: First BMW R80

Postby alexxx » Thu Oct 10, 2019 9:54 am

Thank you everyone for your helpful advice, much appreciated.
@ Galactic greyhound, I followed your suggestion to check the VIN number at the site you mentioned and it returns that my bike is a 1984 R80RT, The frame and engine numbers match as in the V5. I am curious about the BMW R 80/7 sticker above the VIN. I would post a pic but can't see how at the moment

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Re: First BMW R80

Postby george baker » Thu Oct 10, 2019 11:06 am

Hi
search, Ced posts the information a dozen times a year
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Re: First BMW R80

Postby Galactic Greyhound » Thu Oct 10, 2019 11:11 am

And here it is - again! :grin: :


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For iPad/iPhone photo resize, go to the App Store and download a free Photo Resize App such as 'Simple Resize':

Mac:
For Mac photo resize go to the Preview application where there is a resize function.
Ced.

R1100RT 1996.
Sent by Boson Quantum Transmission from the Starship 'Galahad'.
http://www.researchgate.net/publication ... ing_bosons" - It works!


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