R1150RT-P Respray

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shaunlacy

R1150RT-P Respray

Postby shaunlacy » Sun Apr 26, 2015 5:56 am

Morning all, I have got hold of some paint damaged, but otherwise great condition fairing panels to replace the old Police ones. I have also bought a decent air compressor and some spraying kit, I have never sprayed before so I am about to practice on some old panels first, Does anyone have any tips on technique etc, or even the best paints/primer//lacquer to use. All input greatly appreciated

waynem325

Postby waynem325 » Thu Apr 30, 2015 1:12 am

Hi Shaun

I'm definitely no expert but I airbrush as a hobby and know a few things....

What compressor do you have?
As a minimum you will need a HVLP (High Volume Low Pressure) air gun. These can be picked up quite cheaply, but a lot of people argue that the best results are only gained by investing big bucks. I didn't and use a £15 one that I got from eBay. The results I found were really pleasing, to the point where I wondered how much better could the expensive guns be? (I've sprayed a couple of helmets, games controller, guitars and a fairing panel - I mainly paint portraits on paper etc).

Paints - one of the best automotive paints is the Auto Air range. They're water based and so less toxic to you and the environment, but most importantly they use a light fast pigment so the colours won't fade when exposed to the elements. I use these for both helmet work and portrait work and can definitely vouch for them.
I also use Inspire paints. These are solvent based and can be used for automotive applications. Solvents use thinners to reduce the paint and help it flow, plus you'll need more thinners to clean up afterwards. It's messier than water based for obvious reasons, but also more harmful.
Another option is to use a 2k or 2 part paint. I've only ever used a 2k lacquer so can't comment on the paints other than to say that if using a 2k paint then apparently you won't need to use a lacquer to protect it. (As far as I know?).
If you don't use a 2k paint and opt for something like the Auto Air or Inspire paints then you will have to use a lacquer. These come in 1k and 2k variants...Both of which I've used and will comment on later.

Regardless of what you use, you need to invest in a decent respirator. If you plan on spraying outside then you could get away with a cheaper, filtered mask, but if you're inside in poorly ventilated conditions then you should plan on spending at least £30+ on a relatively decent mask.

Preparation wise. The panels need to be keyed. This means scuffing the old paint to give the new paint a surface to grab onto. I normally use 400 grit wet and dry, but a piece of Scotch Brite will suffice. You need to dull the whole surface. If the panels are badly damaged then use car body filler to sort those, and once smoothed over you'll need to use 'Panel wipe' to remove any greases/finger prints etc. I've used white spirit for this and it worked okay.
Once thoroughly dry you should then use a tack cloth to remove any microscopic debris/dust etc then you're ready to prime.

I use rattle can automotive primer. The pro's will argue that the tinned stuff is no good, but I use it whenever I need to and it's never let me down. If you're spraying onto bare plastic (not painted) then you should use a plastic adhesion promoter first.

After a couple of coats have been put on and you have full coverage, gently sand down using 800 grit wet and dry with plenty of water. This gets rid of any over spray and smooths any rough areas down. It also removes any foreign objects that may have landed in the wet paint. (I don't have a proper studio and constantly battle with this problem!).
Again, panel wipe and tack cloth and you're ready for the colour.

If a 2k paint is to be used then you'll have to measure out exactly the correct amounts of paint and hardener. They're usually like 2/3/4 parts paint to 1 part hardener and then 10% thinners. (All paints will have their own instructions) It's a faff, but if you don't use 2k paint you will have to lacquer afterwards (either 1k or 2k) and the 2k lacquer is the recommended option.

I've recently bought a 1k hardener, and although it's a lot easier to use than the 2k, I don't know how well it stands up to wear and tear? 6 weeks after application (on an unused helmet) it feels extremely hard and resists deforming under pressure of my thumb nail. (Not very scientific, and potentially ruinous, but pushing my thumb nail into the lacquer as hard as a I can was a good way to see if it would stand up to a stone chip, or the likes!)

Anyway, once the lacquer has dried thoroughly (24+ hours) you then need to attack with wet and dry. Start off with 1000 grit and work your way up to 2000 grit. You could go further with 2500 grit if you really wanted?
With a buffing machine, use cutting compound and plenty of water and go over the whole surface until you're sure all the minute scratches of the sandpaper have gone, then apply polish with the buffing machine and buff with a pure wool mop attachment.

Job done!

You're best bet is to check the Airbrush forum - Google it and look for the orange text. It's an awesome forum and people much more knowledgeable than me will be able to tell you much better information.
If you're bored and want to check out the things that I've done then take a look at
http://www.myairbrushhobby.weebly.com

Hope I've helped in some way?

Wayne

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Re: R1150RT-P Respray

Postby Galactic Greyhound » Thu Apr 30, 2015 8:59 am

Hi Wayne!

That is a great post - thank you for taking the time to explain the technique and paints so thoroughly! =D> =D> =D>

I might even have a go at airbrushing after reading that! :grin:
Ced.

R1100RT 1996.
Sent by Boson Quantum Transmission from the Starship 'Galahad'.
http://www.researchgate.net/publication ... ing_bosons" - It works!

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Re: R1150RT-P Respray

Postby george baker » Thu Apr 30, 2015 11:20 am

Hi
I was told last week Aldi have a full compressor and spray kit at a sensible price for the performance, not professional but OK for most of us

George
Member 21, R100R, K75 and a Hyosung 250 FOR SALE

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Jaythro
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Re: R1150RT-P Respray

Postby Jaythro » Thu Apr 30, 2015 12:09 pm

Please Note HVLP is really for professional use and usually needs a minimum of 18 ~ 20 cfm (cubic feet a minute) ( I worked with ICI in promotion of the first HVLP paint systems in N Ireland) Its a much more efficient system as you get much less reflected medium (it doesn't bounce back off the surface you are painting)

A small gravity fed gun (paint holder on top of the pistol part) and compressor is all you need to do a couple of small panels its better if you can get compressor with at least a 50 litre capacity and 9 cfm and a good pressure regulator (stops air pressure surges when the compressor starts up again) and an air dryer if you intend using lacquer This set up is about right for a GFG (gravity fed gun and single pack (air drying) paints

Rigorous cleaning of the gun after each medium is put through, and rigorous surface preparation, Will keep the Results good (I still have my Devilbiss Kit from all those years ago with the various Aircaps and Needles (Museum piece now ???)

As far as it goes I would very much suggest contacting a small local paintshop that does cars and take panels with you and ask for a quote By the time you get all the stuff together and have a go it will likely be much cheaper to get someone to do them for you!

Seriously you will need adhesion promoters as the RT panels are "usually colour impregnated" plastic rather than painted and because you are painting thin flexible panels you will likely need some kind of flexible paint additives and moreover If you have never painted a flat surface you "really" don't want to Learn on Oilhead RT panels!

Another thing is Get an old tank off E bay and start learning on a metal tank If you rub through to the layer below the colour on the RT panels you have a whole world of hurt trying to stop edges and paint bleed and chemical reactions
"Put your Ass on a motorcycle and ride with an attitude and the "Grim Reaper" will ride in your shadow!"

Islandmagee in case you're interested?

shaunlacy

Re: R1150RT-P Respray

Postby shaunlacy » Thu Apr 30, 2015 6:52 pm

Thank you so much for that Mr Waynem325. some great tips I feel a bit better about giving it a go. Will post results in due course. Cheeeeers!

shaunlacy

Re: R1150RT-P Respray

Postby shaunlacy » Thu Apr 30, 2015 7:17 pm

Cheers also Jaythro. I take on board your comments about getting the panels done at a shop, but the point is, I want to learn to do them myself. I have a 1150Rt, a 1981 CZ250, '84 MZ250 & Sidecar, XJ900 (pre Divvy) Plus we also have a z1300 amongst other bits, so to learn to paint would be very advantageous and in the end save money! (hopefully) plus keep me out of the pub lol!

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Re: R1150RT-P Respray

Postby Jaythro » Thu Apr 30, 2015 9:07 pm

so to learn to paint would be very advantageous and in the end save money! (hopefully) plus keep me out of the pub lol!
Advice re painting really only applies to the BM plastic panels If you want to learn don't learn on them You will likely have issues with adhesion etc etc plus working around multiple curves in different directions as a novice is a bit of a head melter I did a LOT of painting in the last 30 years I was taught by some REALLY good commercial sprayers. I was using Cellulosic and 2 pack and the new water based HVLP stuff was just breaking out then. even so I still had occasional issues Especially if some muppet sprayed WD40 in the garage next door [-X Grrrrrhhh! ages blocking down with 1200 W&D, there's nothing like watching fisheyes develop in your paint just when you thought it was gorgeous

If you really want to start out? Hire or borrow the kit, Get a decent brand name spraygun even a used one off e bay and buy an Old tank or even a door or bonnet off a car from a scrappy and work on it first, Materials are soooo expensive now and lacquer runs a re a bitch to get out never mind basecoat runs And If you make a balls of the old tank door or bonnet its no big deal
"Put your Ass on a motorcycle and ride with an attitude and the "Grim Reaper" will ride in your shadow!"

Islandmagee in case you're interested?

waynem325

Re: R1150RT-P Respray

Postby waynem325 » Sun May 03, 2015 11:10 am

Hi Wayne!

That is a great post - thank you for taking the time to explain the technique and paints so thoroughly! =D> =D> =D>

I might even have a go at airbrushing after reading that! :grin:
It's the first question I've seen on here that I knew something about - I seized the opportunity to try and give something back to the forum!
Thank you so much for that Mr Waynem325. some great tips I feel a bit better about giving it a go. Will post results in due course. Cheeeeers!
I hope I could help.

I find it the most rewarding, but sometimes most frustrating hobby! Get it right and it feels amazing to see something you've created. Get it wrong and it can be laborious.

The prep work is the most important and most time consuming part of a project. It's easy to want to skip a step but it really doesn't pay off in the long run.

The crash helmet I'm doing now has been in the primed stage for about 2 weeks now as I work on the design. I get impatient as I want to see results, but hopefully it will be worth the wait once it's done?!

If you need any more info just drop me a line and I'll give you some pointers, or point you in the right direction.

waynem325

R1150RT-P Respray

Postby waynem325 » Mon May 25, 2015 11:43 pm

Finally, after more weeks than I'd have liked, my helmet is finally finished! (Ish)

Image

I must confess that I made a few mistakes that I could/should have put right, but it has taken so long to do I decided I'd rather get it back together and not wait even longer!

Lots of masking tape and fiddling. ...the design kind of made itself after weeks of sitting in the lounge with me looking at it seeking inspiration!
I used 'Inspire' solvent based paints finished with a 1k lacquer. The lacquer hasn't had enough time to harden properly, and after using the helmet for a 500 mile trip this weekend, may well need to be sanded and re coated. ...?

Over the red I have used a 'red sparkle pearl' effect paint, and over the blue and white I've used a 'blue sparkle pearl' effect paint. When the sun catches it the whole thing sparkles quite subtly.

I'll be hanging up my airbrushes for a while now.....I just don't have the time I really need.

waynem325

R1150RT-P Respray

Postby waynem325 » Mon May 25, 2015 11:52 pm

Bit of a close up of the sparkles

Image

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Re: R1150RT-P Respray

Postby Galactic Greyhound » Tue May 26, 2015 12:36 am

Excellent job on the helmet Wayne! =D> =D> =D> :grin:
Ced.

R1100RT 1996.
Sent by Boson Quantum Transmission from the Starship 'Galahad'.
http://www.researchgate.net/publication ... ing_bosons" - It works!

waynem325

Postby waynem325 » Tue May 26, 2015 7:52 am

Thanks Ced.

I reckon if I could have spent full days on this then it would have taken about 2 or 3 days of work to complete.

It was mainly to test different paints I have (and I have a LOT) and to see their effects. I keep buying paints and never get round to using them.
Plus, when I started airbrushing, one of the very first things I painted was this helmet. Unfortunately, one of the most common starter projects to paint is a skull, so on the back of the helmet was a rather awful skull which I didn't particularly like.

I do however, like this helmet. It's a Caberg Justissimo and although it's a little heavy, fits me like a well worn slipper and is super comfy.


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