Bleeding

Got some useful tips for doing a tricky job or know of a cheap alternate part? This is the place to list them.

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Figaro

Bleeding

Postby Figaro » Thu Oct 25, 2007 11:21 pm

Brakes of course.
R100RT rear brakes are generally considered tricky.
One thing I tried, successfully, was to take some clear tubing from the nipple up and over into the reservoir.
Pumping the brake pushes the fluid round the system and any air stayed in the top of the tubing. The reservoir was replenished via the tube too and no air went back with the fluid.
Not needed to try it at the front yet but I don't see why it shouldn't work.
Much cleaner too, no jam jars of fluid to be knocked over.
Please let me know if I'm wrong.

Vince

Postby Vince » Fri Oct 26, 2007 9:00 am

The only thing I would pick up on is you would want to flush through with new fluid first, then recirc might save fluid, but TBH once a container is opened it's used anyway so you may as well use it. I like the thinking tho, saves waste, envioroment ect, ect...

Anonymous

Postby Anonymous » Fri Oct 26, 2007 9:05 am

Nope, you're not wrong. This 'circular bleeding' is all I've ever done on any bike, except I don't bother with an air trap at the top, just run the pipe straight into the reservoir - any air just bubbles out of the end. Use 2 pipes and you can get a pair of front disks done in one fell swoop.

The tubing I use is aquarium pump stuff from my local pet shop (something like 50p a metre) and I leave it hanging in the shed full of fluid with a wood screw in each end to seal it.

The only time I do anything different is the annual fluid change when the bleed pipes feed straight into a waste bottle. Pour fresh fluid in at the top and watch for the colour change when it comes through. Job done!

You're welcome

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george baker
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Postby george baker » Fri Oct 26, 2007 10:46 am

Hi
there is a story (maybe urban myth) that someone once filled a concord with fluid from an opened drum, when It was spotted the whole job had to be redone because being hydroscopic (sp?) it picks up water

George

Vince

Postby Vince » Fri Oct 26, 2007 11:04 am

Yep, your Dot 4s ect are designed to absorb and hold water, this helps avoid corrosion of brake parts from the inside. It's why you should change every two years or so as the fluid will have absorbed moisture.

I used Dot 5.1 (not to be confused with 5.0) in a track day car, very good stuff, I used it in the bike as well. Whether I'll pluck up the courage to change the fluids on the ST is yet to be seen, but I can do most stuff. The lower circuit has just been dealer done before I got it, I see they say the upper should changed every 4 years, which kinda goes against the two year recomendation usualy applied to fluid change, perhaps it has a large capacity?

Tim (Midland Section)

Postby Tim (Midland Section) » Fri Oct 26, 2007 10:14 pm

hydroscopic (sp?)
Tim the pedant here :- hygroscopic.

Before changing fluid spec, i.e. Dot 4 to Dot higher, check compatibility as some newer fluids will make your seals swell.

Martin Ellis

Postby Martin Ellis » Sat Oct 27, 2007 6:58 pm

... some newer fluids will make your seals swell.
I've got some tablets for that.... :grin:

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george baker
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Postby george baker » Sun Oct 28, 2007 12:35 pm

Hi Tim,
thanks for the spelling correction, not a word I have used in years.

On the subject of my seals

* do you feel a low fat diet would help with the swelling?
* is it good that you think my seals are swell?

George

Anonymous

Postby Anonymous » Sun Oct 28, 2007 2:22 pm

Please forgive me for taking this thread out at a tangent, maybe the next post will bring it back.

If you really want to see the seals swell, there is a place just down the coast from here called Donna Nook, where at this time of year the beach is full of seals giving birth and new seal pups. An amazing sight.

Andrew

Postby Andrew » Thu Nov 22, 2007 9:03 am

I won't make the obvious joke about going clubbing. It would be in bad taste, wouldn't it?


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